St Peter’s Day parade, boat trip
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Discovering the traditions of Sète
Sunday morning. I’m enjoying a coffee on the terrace of a small bar near Les Halles market when I’m drawn in by the commotion and the music. Curious, I let the noise lead me and come face to face with a procession led by a brass band. Is this one of those parades that precede jousting tournaments, as friends who came on holiday to Sète last summer told me?
To find out for sure, I decide to ask someone when my eyes meet those of a lady of a certain age with a kind look. She tells me that today is Saint Peter’s Day, the patron saint of fishermen. The next stop on this grand festival takes place at Saint-Louis Church which, according to her, is well worth a visit. I decide to give it a go…
Excitement and emotion
At the end of this moving ceremony in tribute to the fishermen and sailors who have passed away, I feel I already have a better understanding of the identity of this town and its people. I follow the procession as it sets off again, as if mesmerised by all the traditional dress and the fervour. On the wise advice of the locals around me, I settle down on the Môle to watch the rest of the spectacle.
In the distance, out at sea, dozens of boats of all kinds are gathered, waiting motionless. I spot bouquets of flowers in the water, and time suddenly seems to stand still…
Enough of the sentimentality; here, they seem to have a bit of character. The flotilla is now back and the brass band has struck up again. As I follow the crowd accompanying the procession to the Chapelle des Pénitents, where the statue of Saint Peter is to be placed, I spot a nice little restaurant whose terrace catches my eye. Perhaps I’ll go and explore some other local traditions now.
