A cycle ride around the Thau Lagoon

It was on a beautiful sunny day in July that our small team (from the Promotion Department of the Archipel de Thau Tourist Office) set off on this adventure around the Thau lagoon. After doing some research on the Hérault Tourisme website, we decided to set off from Mèze. We then got in touch with Sophie from B.L.A. Vélo, who advised us to hire electric bikes for greater comfort.

We arranged to meet at 9am at her charming little shop. After introductions, she explained how our new bikes worked and gave us the equipment we’d need for our trip (lock, repair kit, etc.). It was time for us to set off!

See itinerary

Date:July 2023
Distance:58km
Time on an e-bike:4 hours
Duration on a standard bike: 4 hours 30 minutes
Level: Easy

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A break by the lagoon: a bike, a bench, joy, mother and daughter
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Car park

Parking spaces near B.L.A. Vélo are either free (white zone) or subject to time limits (blue zone). We recommend parking near the small Carrefour. This will allow you to do some last-minute shopping if you’ve forgotten anything or, as we did, to pick up some nice cold water at the end of your ride. You can also park in the Château de Girard car park, just behind B.L.A. Vélo, or in the Tambourin car park.

Mèze – Bouzigues

Thanks to Sophie’s directions, we’re back on the cycle path towards Bouzigues within minutes. The start of our route is a gentle ride. It must be said that there are few hills along the entire route, except at the end near the Belle-Vue estate in Marseillan. On either side, the countryside stretches as far as the eye can see, then suddenly opens up to reveal a breathtaking panorama. The oyster beds, typical ofthe Thau lagoon, stretch (almost) endlessly with Mont Saint-Clairin the background. A photo stop is a must!

Attention

Before we set off, Sophie explains that, although our bikes are sturdy, it’s best to avoid riding over any branches that might be lying on the cycle path between Mèze and Balaruc-le-Vieux, as some of them are covered in thorns.

Bouzigues – Balaruc-le-Vieux

We then continued on our way towards the Crique de l’Angle, a protected natural area which, it must be said, captivated us the moment we arrived. The greenway runs right through the middle and offered a unique spectacle in this sweltering heat. Indeed, to our left we could see the salt from the Thau lagoon in crystallised form, whilst to the right the water stretched as far as the eye could see.
As we approached Balaruc-le-Vieux, Arnaud took the lead and suggested we take a detour. We then wandered through the narrow, winding streets typical of this circular village. He even had a bit of fun leading us down a few dead ends before we reached Place du Truc. It was well worth the effort, as we could see the Crique de l’Angle below us.

Balaruc-le-Vieux - Balaruc-les-Bains

After taking some photos of the area, we set off again towards Balaruc-les-Bains.There, we discover the developed and natural wetland created in late 2022 between Rue des Noisetiers and Rue des Cystes. Here we can spot ducks, coypu, egrets, seagulls… Apparently, you can even spot a Florida turtle there. Near the Manuréva water sports centre, we take a few moments to watch the sailing boats set sail and admire the reflection of Mont Saint-Clair in the waters of the lagoon.
EXTRA TIP: Don’t hesitate to slip on your swimsuit and take a dip, in the warmer months, at the nearby Balaruc-les-Bains beach.

Balaruc-les-Bains – Sète

Next stop: the famous Pointe Courte district. After crossing the main road, we find ourselves in a completely different, more traditional atmosphere. Colourful houses line the streets and fishermen’s nets add to this much-loved scene. We quickly take a look around, being careful not to disturb the peace and quiet of the local residents.
We then decide to stop off atthe Sète Tourist Office to stock up on fresh water. We then take the route that skirts the town to the south, on the sea side (safer), and joins the Lido greenway. However, it is possible to go round the seaside town to the north and enjoy the view of the Thau lagoon.
With our water bottles topped up, we head towards La Corniche where Marion has fun capturing us racing each other on camera. We’re in luck: the sun brings out the blue of the Mediterranean. It really feels like we’re on holiday. We decide to cycle on for a few more minutes to reach the beaches of the Lido and have a bite to eat on the sand before taking a dip.

Sète – Marseillan-Plage

With our picnic packed away, we set off for Marseillan-Plage. We were wise to have a bite to eat, as we’re now heading out for a 12-kilometre walk through the vineyards and along the coast. Welcome to the Lido, a strip of sand linkingthe Île Singulière (Sète) to the coast.
Near Marseillan-Plage, we spot the famous Redoute du Castellas on our left. A sign tells us that this is a small stone tower which was used to watch out for the arrival of potential invaders in the 18th century.

Marseillan-Plage – Marseillan-Ville

We drive quickly through Marseillan-Plage, planning to stop by the Canal du Midi. We pass under a bridge, take a dirt track and, a little further on, we can see the Pointe des Onglous, which marks the end of the Canal du Midi and the point where boats enter the Étang de Thau. There isn’t much wind that day. However, a few people are still giving kitesurfing or sailing a go with the Glénans school. We take a moment to admire the spectacle before getting back on our bikes.
As it was nearly snack time, we decided to stop for a break at a little café in the port of Marseillan-Ville. We all had a drink to quench our thirst and recharge our batteries for our final stretch, which looked set to be a bit tougher than the rest of the route.

Marseillan-Ville – Mèze

The start of this stony stretch takes us through the Prés de Soupié, a protected natural area where birds love to relax. A small wooden walkway allows us to cross the area without disturbing the rich flora and fauna found here, leading us to the Bellonette estate. It is there that Marie (from the Promotion Department of the Archipel de Thau Tourist Office) advised us to stop for a breathtaking view of the vineyards and oyster beds. Gérald quickly gets his drone out to film the panorama.
It’s time for us to head back. Before that, we take one last break near the Belle-Vue estate to enjoy, as its name suggests, the beautiful view of the shellfish beds before racing back toB.L.A. Vélo toreturn our equipment.
PLEASE NOTE: The section between Marseillan-Ville and Mèze should be avoided after heavy rain. We also recommend using a mountain bike for this route.

Back in pictures

A quick note from the team

Arnaud: “I’ve been wanting to cycle around the Thau lagoon for ages… I wasn’t disappointed! There’s nothing better than discovering the natural riches of our region on this superb, colourful ride, from the blue of the lagoon and the sea to the green of the garrigue and the vineyards.”

Marion: “I was really looking forward to trying out the lagoon circuit with my dream team! I’d already done part of it on a standard bike between Mèze and Marseillan, but not the whole circuit. The fact that the loop is accessible by e-bike was brilliant! I also really enjoyed the section between Mèze and Loupian, which I was discovering for the first time, and the finish in Bouzigues overlooking the oyster beds – it’s a real feast for the eyes.”

Gérald: “I cycle regularly all over the Thau Archipelago, but I have to say my favourite stretch is still the one between Marseillan-Ville and Mèze. You’re far from everything, lost in the middle of the countryside. It’s a real change of scenery!”

Solenn: “This was the first time I’d done this cycle route and I must say I was pleasantly surprised. You go from one discovery to the next and never tire of the scenery you encounter all along the way! Definitely one to do again and again!”

Practical information

Tips: Before setting off on this loop, remember to pack the following in your rucksack:

➡️ water (at least 2 litres)
➡️ sun cream
➡️ a cap
➡️ a bike lock (available to borrow from your bike hire company)
➡️ a repair kit (available to borrow from your bike hire company)
➡️ a high-visibility vest (if you’re completing this loop at night)
➡️ a torch (if you’re completing this loop at night)
➡️ your sunglasses
➡️ a gel saddle (if it’s been a while since you last cycled).

This route should be avoided in hot weather, as there is very little shade.

The “Thau Lagoon by Bike” route

The Cirkwi website provides an interactive map to help you plan your route. On it, you’ll find all the key stops along this cycle route organised by Hérault Tourisme.

The GPX route: You can find the GPX routeprovided by theCirkwi websitehere.

The GéoVélo app: To make sure you don’t miss a thing on your bike ride, we recommend downloading the freeGéoVélo app foriOSandAndroid. As well as showing you which way to go, you can use the display options to find the exact location of bike parking facilities, pumps, repair shops, charging stations, not to mention water points, toilets and more…

Ferry services:
Feeling a bit under the weather? Technical issues? Tired? You can break up the route using the ferry services, which have a dedicated space for bikes (subject to availability):

From April to October,the Ecothau, which specialises in eco-friendly cruises, offers a 20-minute journey to Sète from Balaruc-les-Bains. After booking on 07 71 71 03 52 (€8), head to the “La Piscine” jetty in Balaruc-les-Bains or the Tivoli bridge in Sète.

From early June to early October, to reach the Île Singulière from Mèze in just 40 minutes, take the ferry service(€6 to €11 / free for under-10s) operated by Sète Croisières and the local authority. The departure point is next to Sète railway station or at the port of Mèze.

Interactive map: On this interactive map, you can find all Accueil Vélo -certified providers (accommodation, restaurants, tourist attractions, bike hire companies), as well as places where you can get your bike repaired.